mánadagur 1. oktober 2007síða 46
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Nr. 189 - 1. oktober 2007
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TRAVEL
Abby Kirkbride
abby.kirkbride@gmail.com
Photos: Ben Rasmussen
This is one of the first lessons
the Mother Continent (Europe,
ed.) taught my husband and I on
our month-long honeymoon trip
en route to the Faroe Islands
where we will start life together
in Klaksvik. After a week of
marriage, we left my home in
rural America, a place of big
highways, big sky and a big
family, to travel across the
Balkans, a land of young coun-
tries, local cheese and small cars.
Our first stop was Athens,
Greece, where my husband, Ben,
waited 30 minutes for me to
clear foreign immigration after
he had zipped through the
European Union queue.
Lacking a purple passport, I
realized quickly that being
American is not as valuable on
this side of the Atlantic.
The next phase of our trip was to
visit several of the world-famous
Greek Isles. We have few friends
from the United States who have
enjoyed the cool white houses
and bright blue waters of the
isles, but we were not without
company as naked Germans and
baked-brown Scandinavians
basked with us on the beaches.
Free from a daily schedule for
the first time in months, Ben
began to teach me essential Faro-
ese. Unfortunately, as he spent
most of his youth living in the Phi-
lippines his spoken Faroese is not
so great, either. We are limited to
phrases like “Góðan morgun,”
“takk fyri,” and “skulu vit fara?”
which I proudly recite with a harsh
American accent that makes him
cringe. My biggest accomplish-
ment so far has been with
counting, and I can now tell Ben
the price of something in Faroese
so long as it is a number below 20.
Bush in Greece
After a few days of beaches and
big meals we grew restless, and
have since spent the last two
weeks of travel staying with
anyone who will take us in.
Staying with locals is a great
opportunity to learn about a
culture and find the best
restaurants. It also saves money,
which is essential for two young
unemployed journalists traveling
in Europe for a month with only
the increasingly devalued U.S.
dollar to spend.
On the island of Samos, within
sight of the Turkish coast, we
stayed with a lovely pair of
English teachers who treated us
to the only bed in the apartment
and an eagerness to talk politics.
“It is clear to us, based on Iraq,
that President Bush is mentally
handicapped,” they told us
earnestly as we visited and
watched the sun set over the city.
It is not a bad point, but as the
only American within 500 miles,
and with a husband claiming
Faroese citizenship, I felt it was
my duty to defend our leader.
We may have been wrong as we
cast our votes, but we were not
that wrong. In these circum-
stances Ben only has to explain
where the Faroes are located; I
have to try and explain my
country’s entire foreign policy.
Clinton in Kosovo
Anxious for the next leg of the
trip, we happily set out for
Prishtina, the capital of Kosovo,
on the green velveteen seats of a
Soviet-era train. When we
arrived we saw something
jarringly out of place amidst
crumbling traditional homes and
concrete apartment buildings: a
20-foot replica Statue of Liberty
boldly rising above the city atop
Hotel Victory.
Our reception in Kosovo as
Americans was pleasant and
unexpected. It is the only group
of people in the world who are
able to reconcile Cinton, Bush
and Iraq, and still come out
loving the U.S. It is Clinton,
though, who holds the key to
their hearts for his support
during the Kosovo War in 1999.
Over coffee one woman put it
that, “We don’t like each other,
but we all like Clinton.”
Her statement was chilling as
it came less than 24-hours after a
bomb went off in a coffee shop
late at night on the centrally
located Bill Clinton Boulevard.
Two people were killed and
twelve more were wounded in
what locals accredit as a mob hit.
As I watched the wreckage from
across the street, stepping over
broken plates and plastic, I
thought about how there will not
be any more hero-presidents to
help this fledgling country as it
works for independence and
stability in the coming years.
In just a few days we will leave
for Copenhagen, where we will
enjoy the orderly public trans-
portation and expensive coffee
before catching a bumpy flight
north. I do not know everything
that awaits us in the Faroes, but I
highly anticipate the natural
beauty, a new family and comm-
unity, and the wool.
If you see me on the street over
the next year shout out a
greeting: We can count to 20
together.
Bio:
Abby Kirkbride and Ben Rasmussen come from opposite sides of
the planet. Abby is from Chugwater, Wyoming, USA, where she
was raised on her family’s cattle ranch. Ben’s father, Jogvan Just,
is a native of Klaskvik, Faroe Islands, but Ben spent most of his life
on the island of Balabac in the Philippines where his parents are
missionaries.
The couple met as students during their first year at John Brown
University in Arkansas, the home state of Bill Clinton. They both
graduated this spring with degrees in journalism.
For at least the next year they will be living in Klaksvik, Faroe
Islands. It will be a chance for Abby to learn about her husband’s
heritage, getting to know his family and the Faroese language. Their
plans for the future include graduate school and working with
environmental and social issues in the developing world.
Postcards from Bill Clint
Relationships for an American in Europe
are usually easy to predict: If someone
likes you it is because of Bill Clinton, and
if they do not like you it is because of
George Bush.
Abby Kirkbride and Ben Rasmussen in front of the
which will end with them moving to the Faroes